Inchgower 14 Year Old Flora & Fauna is a single malt from the coastal part of Speyside, the only regularly available official bottling from a distillery that channels almost its entire production into blends. In practice it is the only available proprietary bottling of Inchgower, usually a key component of the Bell's blend, and one of the few opportunities to get to know the spirit from this quiet distillery.
The distillery was founded in 1871 by Alexander Wilson and for decades it has remained under the control of Diageo. Barely 1% of production is sold as single malt, the rest going mainly into the Bell's blend and to Johnnie Walker. The bottle belongs to the Flora & Fauna series – a themed run of single malt releases available at the distilleries, named by the late whisky writer Michael Jackson, in which each distillery was assigned a particular animal, presented on the label.
Although formally a Speyside, Inchgower's character breaks away from the region's style. Stylistically it recalls little of Speyside's elegant, fragrant nature, being closer to a coastal malt, and the single malt itself is marked by a salty, assertive note atypical for the region. Its spicy character stems from a hotter than usual second water during a rapid mashing that limits pronounced nuttiness; fermentation is short, and the steeply descending swan necks on the stills help hold back the heavier fractions of the spirit, whose underlying waxiness brings to mind another coastal distillery, Clynelish. The whisky is bottled at 43%.
In the glass it shows a deep amber. The nose is rich and deep, with a light toffee note, in time opening up to shortcrust pastry and fruit, then moving into a hazily metallic, gun-metal tone. The structure is medium and mouth-filling; the palate is generally sweet but at the same time peculiarly drying, with a touch of salt and traces of oil, and the finish is bittersweet, with a hint of almonds. This is a puzzle of a whisky, in which the aromas, and even the flavour, are constantly shifting – a complex and intriguing mix with a sweet palate and a bitter finish.
Inchgower is sometimes called the "Manzanilla of Speyside". While Speyside whiskies are usually classed as light and floral, Inchgower is slightly salty, almost maritime, with a spicy character, which has earned it a nickname referring to that particular style of sherry from Spain. The producer recommends serving it in a traditional whisky glass, neat or with a dash of water.